 
Statistical Accounts of the Parish of
Buittle.
Over the years, 3 separate statistical accounts of all the
parishes in Scotland were published. The original Statistical Accounts were compiled
in 1796 and Buittle Parish was contained within Volume 17. It amounted to 23 pages.
In 1844 the Second Statistical Account was published. The entry for Buittle Parish
extended to 15 pages.
In 1965, The Third Statistical Account of Scotland was compiled.
Mr Hogg, the schoolmaster at Palnackie Primary School was the author of the Buittle
Parish entry, which extended to 13 pages. This last account is still subject to copyright
restrictions and cannot be fully reproduced here, but I'm sure I can be forgiven
for quoting just a small part of it which I find personally
Like any large city Palnackie has its youth
problem. A social consciousness and sense of responsibility are not too well
developed amongst some of the young people (I was a 14 year old village lout in
those days! JB) Minor outbreaks of hooliganism crop up from time to time, but
there is nothing vicious behind them, and if handled properly the young lads are
quite amenable...
Incidentally, one of the games played by the
village girls is new to the writer, and would have delighted the author of The
Golden Bough. The game is called 'Pancakes'. The children pick a Mother, a
Witch, and a Maid. The Witch goes off and hides. The Mother and the Maid take
the other children into 'a house', the other children being known as 'Pancakes'.
The Mother goes for a walk, telling the Maid to look after the pancakes well.
The Witch now comes to the door of the house and asks the Maid to get her
something from the kitchen and while her back is turned the Witch steals as many
'pancakes' as she can, and carries them off. When the mother returns, she counts
the pancakes, and, finding some missing, everyone falls too and beats the
maid....
The First and Second Accounts are now
public property, and both are reproduced in full on this web page. Click here to go to the
Second Statistical Account below.
The Statistical Account of Scotland, Drawn up from Communications of
the Ministers of the Different Parishes, by Sir John Sinclair, Bart. 1796.
The Parish of Buittle
By the Rev. Mr George Maxwell of Glenarm, Minister of that Parish.
Name, Situation, and Extent.
Various opinions are entertained as to the derivation of the name. Some have thought
that Boot-hill, or Butt-hill, was the original name of that territory which now composes
the parish of Buittle, on account of the frequent musters of cavalry, or archers, that
must have taken place in the vicinity of the castle after-mentioned. With as much
probability, however, it may be suggested, that the word Buittle is but a contraction of
Bowet-hill or Bowet-hall, an appellation occasioned by the beacons in the neighbourhood of
the castle alluded to; or the great light which is displayed on festive or solemn
occasions. Men of the name of Bootle, too, are frequent in England, and to be found in
Scotland. Buittle is one of those parishes in the Stewartry of Galloway, that border upon
the Solway Frith, and have the advantages of navigation. From the march of
Crossmichael,
upon the north, Buittle extends towards the sea. This is the length of the parish, and
includes about 8 miles. On the whole of the east side it is bounded by the river and
parish of Urr. From thence to Kelton and Rerrick, which are coterminous with Buittle, on
the west and south-west, its average breadth may be 3 miles.
Soil, Surface, Hills etc.
The soil in Buittle is like most of the land in lower Galloway (especially near the
mouth of the Urr), kindly and fertile, even beyond its appearance. The surface of Buittle
is unequal, and justifies Buchanan's remark upon Galloway in general:- "Nufquam fere
in montes attollitur, fed collibus tantum frequentibus intumefit." The hills,
however, being mostly green and without heath, have lately drawn the attention of the
industrious; nor have their pains been ill repaid, as the soil is often found deeper on
the heights than on the lower ground. It is here to be observed also, that there are few
hills in this part of Galloway, where cultivation is at all practicable, that do not bear
distinct marks of the plough. The depths of the furrows, too, plainly declare, that this
tillage has not been casual, or merely experimental, but frequent and successive. This
should set both the ancient population and industry of this part of Scotland in a more
favourable light, than that in which they are usually beheld. It also affords probability
to a tradition repeated by the country people to this day, "That at a time when
Scotland was under a papal interdict, or sentence of cursing from the Pope, it was found
that his Holiness had forgot to curse the hills, though he had commanded the land, usually
arable, to yield no increase; and that while this sentence remained, the people were
necessitated to seek tillage ground, in places unusual and improbable." (That King
Robert Bruce, and what part of Scotland submitted to him, were under the Pope's curse for
a good many years, and that Galloway acknowledged his authority pretty early, everyone
knows; but if the above tradition, as standing connected with this fact, is true, we may
place it among the few benefits that superstition has conferred on mankind.) The grass
through the greater part of Buittle is excellent, being mostly what is called the
"Sheeps fescue grass." Exclusive of other good properties, it may be averted to,
that this plant defies extirpation by either bad farming or bad stocking: For often when
land is so much plowed that it will bear no more corn, and even the roots of the large
grasses are destroyed, we see the field covered with the fescue in a very short time.
Again, by overstocking a pasture, the seed stalks of most grasses are eaten up, and the
very roots prayed upon. But the prodigious crop of small seeds, light and easily
transferred by the winds, afforded by the fescue, hinders its destruction in the former
sense; and the smallness of its fibrous roots in the latter.
Plants etc.
The natural productions of Buittle differ little from those of the lower parts of
Galloway in general, and which, in all probability, will be particularly mentioned in the
account of every parish belonging to that district. The plants and flowers in Buittle are
no ways remarkable. Even by gentlemen in affluent circumstances, that cultivation of the
earth, which produces an immediate return, and connects with general utility, is preferred
to attempts of unprofitable curiosity, as to rearing exotic plants, or even those of this
climate that are of a precarious growth. This parish, indeed, abounds so much with
excellent natural shelter, that it is believed few plants or trees would fail here, that
succeed well in any other part of Scotland, if not in Britain. With great safety one might
take any bet, that, communibus diebus, the thermometer stands higher in Buittle than it
does in London. For some ages, this parish was, in consequence of the above natural
advantages, distinguished as abounding with orchards. Of late, however, these have fallen
much into decay. It has indeed been complained of, that for many years past the growth of
fruit-timber, and of trees in general, has been less favoured by the temperature of the
air than formerly; and some gloomy philosophers have dreaded, that Scotland might
experience the calamities of Iceland, or Danish Greenland. Even under less dreary
impressions, candour must admit, that, for these 15 or 20 years, new plantations have not
come on so vigorously as could have been expected; and that the fruits, such as apples,
pears etc., have not ripened to the degree of perfection, that even middle aged people
affirm to have been formerly common.
Animal Flowers.
Till of late, perhaps, it has not been much adverted to, that the animal flower, or
water polypus, is even common alongst the shores of Buittle, Colvend, and very likely
around the whole coast of the Stewartry of Galloway. The form of these polypuses is
elegant and pleasantly diversified. Some are found resembling the sun-flower, some the
hundred leafed rose, but the greater number bear the likeness of the poppy. The colours
differ as much as the form. Sometimes the animal flower is of a deep purple, frequently of
a rose colour, but mostly of a light red or fleshy hue. The most beautiful of them, that
could be picked up, have often been carried from the shore of Colvend, 12 or 15 miles up
into the country, where they have lived, fed on worms, and even bred for several weeks,
and might have existed longer, if they could have been supplied with sea-water. In a word,
it seems probable, that an industrious naturalist might discover, on this coast, some of
those singular animals, not much inferior to those produced in the Antilles, and other
tropical countries. (I assume this refers to sea-anemones. JB)
Fish.
As the south end of Buittle is washed by the Solway Frith, a good deal of fish is
taken, and much more might be had. As other subsistence is plenty, however, and as
labourers and their families are maintained by their employers, neither choice nor
necessity leads anyone to follow the fishing business, much further than as an amusement.
Nevertheless, it is believed by many judicious people, that if a few fishermen from the
Highlands should settle about the mouth of the Urr, they would find profitable employment,
and be of service to the country around. The fish usually taken at present are, salmon,
cod, flounders, etc Cockles, muscles, and several other kinds of shell fish are also to be
had in tolerable plenty.
Quadrupeds.
The quadrupeds are entirely of the common sort, and the black cattle (which are almost
all polled) are of a good shape. During the time that a farmer society subsisted at
Dumfries, which invited the tenentry to show their best breeding cattle, and distributed
premiums, the mould of cattle was visibly improved. Since that society was dropt, farmers
have become, it is thought, more careless, both in Buittle, and in many parishes around.
The breed of horses is much improved, so far as concerns the purposes of agriculture, but
the old hardy Galloway species is mostly extinct. Sheep are kept in small numbers, being
thought prejudicial to the pastures where black cattle are fed; nor is the growth of wool
attended to, or considered as an object of profit, unless on the small scale of domestic
economy.
Birds.
To mention the feathered race might here seem to be a matter of levity; but when it is
considered that they, perhaps, of all living creatures, have the most delicate sensations,
as to climate and the state of the air; that nature has enabled, or even instructed them,
to choose or to change their residence accordingly; and that their appearance or absence
may afford no contemptible estimate of the increasing warmth or cold of any country,
(things much connected with the state of agriculture), on may venture to hazard ridicule
on this subject. Perhaps inattention to subjects not visibly important, and ignorance of
natural history, might hinder our ancestors from remarking upon birds any ways singular.
If that has not been the case, this country has lately been frequented by several that
used seldom to appear in Scotland. Since some groves of pines came to be of a respectable
growth, the cross-bills have been frequently seen, and it is believed breeds in the
country. The bull-finch is common, and pheasants have been observed, which in all
probability, must have come from England. Quails, hardly known a few years age, are now in
abundance. In hard winters, too, the Bohemian chatterer, and even some Arctic birds have
visited us. The common moor and black game have disappeared from the parish, since
agriculture became extensive, and the heath, broom, furze, etc., were destroyed. Other
game would be very plenty, but the game laws have never been rigorously executed in this
part of the country, unless when people break fences, disturb cattle, and do the farmers
wanton mischief in the course of their amusement.
Minerals.
As to minerals or fossils, little can be here mentioned, serving either to gratify
curiosity, or prompt industry. Pock crystals, but of no great brilliancy, are often found.
Tacs and spars of several kinds are pretty frequently met with; and iron ore appears to be
in such abundance in Buittle, as well as the neighbouring parishes, that some have thought
an iron manufacture might be copiously supplied. Certain burrows in the earth, frequently
talked of in different parts of the country, would lead one to think that iron mad been
wrought in this part of the world, at a very early period. There is still some marl in
almost every moss; but, as lime can be had by water carriage, marl is now but little
valued.
Farms, Rents, and Proprietors.
The generality of farms in Buittle are of moderate extent. Some are of 300 acres or
more; but these, (with an exception or two), consist of broken or hilly ground. There may
be about half a dozen farmers in the parish, who pay �200 a year of rent, or upwards;
hardly so many paying from �10 to �20. The most common rent is from �70 to �120 per
annum. Indeed, in buittle, property of the landed sort is not ill divided, either among
the landholders or the tenantry. There are 15 heritors in the parish;- the largest estate
is about �1000 per annum, and there is only one below �70.
Fuel, Cultivation, and Produce.
From a port in the Urr, at Barlochan, or Garden Creek, the greater part of the parish
is supplied with lime. That port lies to the east side of the parish, and is
centrical. At
Munches, about a mile further up the river, some is also landed. Lately, (and most
timeously) coal has been imported at a reasonable rate, namely, at 10d. the Carlisle
bushel. While this country retains its sober senses and habits, it cannot readily forget
the persons by whose interposition and efforts this desirable event has been brought
about. Tillage and pasturage are almost equally objects to the farmer here. The greatest
tillage permitted is one third of the arable, which is certainly more than is profitable.
After liming, three white crops are taken, two of oats, and a third of barley. If, after
the third white crop, the farmer dungs and has a green crop, a fourth white crop is
permitted, when the ground is always sown out with red clover and rye-grass, the only
foreign grasses propagated. White clover, and the perennial red, are so common in the
fields, and rise naturally in such plenty, that the bought seeds of these plants are
seldom used. Not much wheat is sown. The soil, though kindly, is light; but that is not
the only reason. - The straw of wheat is not used as fodder in this part of the country,
though it is in England; and this, to a farmer in these parts, is a great drawback on a
crop, as most of the farms can maintain more cattle in the summer, than can be provided
with food in the winter: For the same reason, fallowing is little known, grass being
valuable, and the fields abundantly clean, since the corns were dressed with fans, a
practice equally profitable and universal.
To the credit of this country, this simple and most useful machine (the fan) was, a
few years ago, brought to perfection by two natives of this neighbourhood. Without this
aid, farmers might still have been obliged to place their barns in the most awkward and
inconvenient situation, from the view of obtaining wind for winnowing. Even then the corn
often rotted in the barn; and fields remained unsown, because the air was calm, or the
wind unsuitable, or accompanied by rain or snow. Servants are now set to winnow the corns,
in the fore part of the winter night, when they were usually straggling, or unprofitably
employed. Their health is no longer exposed in this part of their duty; and, in a word,
the date of the corn trade, in this country, seems to coincide with the period when the
fan was introduced. It is with no bad intention, that we mention the names of the
inventors, to whom the world has been more indebted than to thousands of renowned empyrics
in politics, law, divinity, physic, etc. The said ingenious mechanics were Mr Muir, joiner
in Dumfries, and Mr Kinghorn, miller of the town's mills, both dead several years ago.
From the inequality on the surface of the ground, the watering of land, by the
numerous wells and rivulets, is easy; but of late the practice was not much followed,
where other manures can easily be had, and it is believed to render the soil thin and
gravely, and to exhaust it so, that hardly any other improvement is an effectual
restorative. Of commons, we have not one foot. Ring fences (stone dykes) around every
farm, have been erected long ago, and even sub-divisions; but the latter are quite too
large, especially for the turnip husbandry. Indeed, of late, potatoes, which are exported
in great quantities to England, to Glasgow, etc., have superseded almost every other
fallow or green crop. The price is from 1s. to 1s. 6d. per cwt. as the season is
plenteous. The implements of agriculture are in every respect the same with those in the
north of England; and as the intercourse with Whitehaven, and the other towns on the
opposite side of the Solway Frith, is daily, it is believed the utensils of husbandry are
just as well made here as anywhere else, and better accommodated to the state and
situation of the ground, than could be done by a stranger tradesman. No oxen are used for
draught, probably owing to the temptation people have to selling those home-bred horses,
that are good, to the English, and to jockeys in general. The breeding of black cattle,
too, is followed by every farmer, as far as the nature of things will permit.
Prices of Labour, Improvements, etc.
The wages for servants are, for lot men, as they are called, or cottagers, about �14
per annum; but the articles of maintenance furnished are, perhaps, estimated in Galloway,
�2 or �3 a year lower that in Lothian, and some other counties in Scotland.
Labourers,
by the day, get from 1s. 2d. to 1s. 4d. Farm houses are generally very good, as well as
offices. In a word, the continual repair of drovers, cattle-dealers, and even
labourers,
to England, and the spirit of improvement that has prevailed in this country for these 20
years past, has made the farming of these parts nearly equal to what it is in the southern
part of the island, in all ordinary matters, and due regard being had to the means of the
inhabitants of the different countries. As a test of the happy consequences, 4 or 5 of the
best farms in Buittle, which, about the year 1747, were rented at �200 Scotch, or 40
merks each, now pay, (or would pay if out of lease), �230 a piece, whilst the tenants
would live incomparably better than their predecessors. One prejudice seems much to
obstruct the success of the farmer in this part of the world - it is that of sowing too
late. The fields, where the corns shaken by violent winds, if early ploughed, have been
known to yield a respectable crop in the following season, in spite of the rigours of
winter; and though constant experience declares, that the oats, sown in the beginning of
February, afford the most profitable return, still the sowing of grain is delayed till the
middle of March; nor is the seed barley committed to the ground sooner that the middle or
latter end of April. The harvest, as might be expected, corresponds with the seed time.
Seldom does it begin before the middle of September, and it is often later, as the soil
and exposure of the ground, or as the nature of the season, may decide.
Leases.
In farming, as in most other concerns, a man's exertions depend very much on the
prudence of those principles, in which his endeavours originate. In Galloway, and perhaps
elsewhere, on maxim seems for ages fettered the hands of industry. The farmer reasoned
thus with himself:- "My forefathers and I have had this present profession, in which
I am now settled, by successive leases of 7 years, or less, for ages. The rent has been
still the same; but to keep it from rising, we have not only omitted every improvement,
but, in many instances, we have, to our own detriment, been obliged to labour for the
depreciation of the subject. This is the consummate prudence of the farmer; and departing
from the maxim, every farmer may expect to find his ruin, either in the avarice of the
laird, or in the envy of his neighbour; as the latter will offer, and the former
cheerfully receive, whatever any parcel of ground can afford, let it be improved at whose
cost, or by whose industry, it may be". Two methods of refuting this dangerous maxim
seem to have been adopted in England. The one is, by leasing the ground from year to year,
and stipulating, annually, what improvement is to be made, and whether at the cost of the
landlord or tenant. The mode of farming is thus too fixed. The other is, that of granting
leases for lives, or for a great number of years, upon fines, etc., so that the interest
of the tenant in his position becomes greater than that of the proprietor. In this part of
the world, a medium has been sought. Few leases are granted for less than 19 years; and it
is now, indeed, not so much the question with a tenant, whether his industry will redound
ultimately to the benefit of his landlord, or of a succeeding tenant, as whether it will
pay him, (the present possessor), in conformity to his skill and outlay. -- "If the
farm (now reasons the latter) is worth �10 a year more, at the end of my lease, I may
just as well give that for it, as for any other of equal value." After all, it is
probable that longer leases than those of 19 years would be favourable to permanent
improvements, such as hedges, etc., and it must be owned, that as the lease draws near a
close, the tenant is often found comporting himself, as if under a conviction that he
inhabited hostile ground. To say the truth, however, that narrowness of mind, or
aristocratical pride, which adjusted every matter of lease, to the visible purpose of
keeping the tenants in abject dependence upon their landlords, has of late been put very
much to the blush. Through all Galloway, as well as in Buittle parish, a prodigious
alteration took place in landed property, through the American war, and the scarce less
deplorable concerns of the Douglas and Heron Bank. Most of the estates brought to sale in
this country, were purchases by natives of it - men acquainted with the world, and in
affluent circumstances. These knew better things than to ruin themselves with
Baillie-work, (what is called Boon-days in England), to put their importance on the number
of kain hens paid them by ragged cottagers; or to recommend their own affability, by
encouraging idleness and intoxication, in ale-house conventions. The permanent part of the
improvements, necessary on the estates, they took upon themselves;- their tenants were
prudently chosen; the leases they gave were of considerable length; and, to give tenants
more confidence and spirit, it is stipulated with several, that they shall be allowed to
resign, on a year's warning, if times are distressing, provided they have not committed a
waste, or done considerable detriment upon their respective farms.
Population.
Before saying more of other concerns, it may be fit to mention the population of the
parish, and some matters connected with it. To save words, and communicate information as
readily as possible, recourse is had to figures.
Population in 1755, as returned to Dr Webster
|
899
|
Ditto in 1793
|
855
|
Decrease
|
44
|
Religious Persuasions
|
Families
|
Individuals
|
Members of the Established Church
|
133
|
678
|
Cameronians
|
16
|
67
|
Seceders
|
9
|
34
|
Roman Catholics
|
19
|
75
|
Episcopals
|
0
|
1
|
Total
|
177
|
855
|
SEXES
Males
|
392
|
Females
|
463
|
Total
|
855
|
AVERAGES for three years preceding 1793
Births
|
24
|
Deaths
|
24
|
Average of marriages for 5 years
|
5
|
AGES
Persons under 10 years of age
|
215
|
Persons between 10 and 20
|
168
|
Persons between 20 and 50
|
343
|
Persons between 50 and 70
|
110
|
Persons between 70 and 100
|
19
|
Total
|
855
|
PROFESSIONS AND CONDITIONS.
Proprietors of land
|
16
|
Apprentices
|
4
|
Farmers
|
74
|
Public-house Keepers
|
2
|
Smiths
|
3
|
Schoolmasters
|
2
|
Joiners
|
5
|
Salary of Principal Schoolmaster
|
�10
|
Shoemakers
|
3
|
Ditto of the second, with bed, board and washing
|
�3
|
Tailors
|
4
|
Scholars in principal school
|
45
|
Weavers
|
8
|
Ditto in second school
|
30
|
Masons
|
3
|
Prisoners in debt
|
1
|
Millers
|
3
|
Ditto, for alleged murder, since 1790
|
1
|
Household servants
|
137
|
|
|
Labouring servants and cottagers
|
38
|
|
|
Clergymen
|
2
|
|
|
Merchant
|
1
|
|
|
CATTLE, ETC.
Horses
|
195
|
Carts
|
83
|
Black Cattle
|
2299
|
Ploughs
|
67
|
Sheep
|
752
|
|
|
HOUSES, RENTS ETC.
Farm houses rebuilt within the last 10 years
|
13
|
Cottages rebuilt within the last 10 years
|
18
|
Valued rent in Scotch money
|
�3445
|
Real rent in Sterling
|
�5054
|
Minister's stipend
|
�73
|
Commerce.
The parish of Buittle has no commerce, except what consists of the exportation of
barley, oats, potatoes, etc. to England and Glasgow, and the sending of black cattle to
English markets. After every accession of agricultural and mechanical knowledge, it is a
question but the old observation on Galloway, and especially this part of it, may hold
good, "Universa pecoris quam frumenti fertilior". More especially of late, many
creditable people have contended, that the improvements of the breed of sheep, and the
growth of wool, would render this country more valuable to all concerned, than ever it has
been hertofore; perhaps it might here be equally tedious and impertinent to enhance the
idea.
Roads, Woods, etc.
The roads are tolerable, rather because the soil is hard and dry, than because the
management of them hitherto has been judicious, or the expenditures regarding them
liberal. There is not one village in all the parish, nor is there any manufacture. Indeed,
for many years past, the want of fuel seems to have acted as a prohibition respecting
both. Even the vestiges of some villages, of which we read in the charters of some
estates, cannot now be discerned. Of wood there may be growing, and even fit for cutting,
at this day, to the value of �10,000 and the late plantations abundantly the care and
industry of the owners. Ash and oak are the trees most common; - the larix is the
favourite plant of the day; but its rapid and towering growth renders it incommodious to
be interspersed in plantations. It seems thus to be threatened with exile to the tops of
hills. Even there, few of the species fail.
Schools.
Knowledge, as to both its state and extent, is as respectable in Buittle as could well
be supposed, whilst the opportunities of acquiring it are considered. There is a public
school, to which most of the children attending it travel some 2, some 3 miles. The
schoolmaster is chosen from year to year, as it is called, and the only security for his
salary of �10 is the good will of the heritors. There is also a cheaper school, having a
stipend of �3 per annum: Thus the whole funds of public instruction, for the rising
generation, for the whole parish of Buittle, are �13 Sterling! - What can be the meaning
of this parsimoney? Is it from the learned, the well informed, the religious, - or is it
from the ignorant, "the mole-ey'd, half discerning," and consequently
unprincipled, that civil society just now stands in dread? - From some circumstances, one
would think it was from the former.
Poor.
Buittle has no poor's rate, in consequence few poor, and no travelling beggars. The
collections in the church, joined to the prudent charity of well disposed persons, afford
abundant supply to those really in need. - Vagabond beggars, the scum of cities, who beg
half-a-crown a day to drink it at night, are pretty numerous, and often troublesome; nor
is the law of the land very strictly executed, in repressing these pests of society.
Indeed, the failure of manufacturers at present, affords them too good an excuse for their
idleness.
Antiquities
It is now the disposition of the world, (perhaps it may not decrease), rather to know
how things are, than how they have been. Were it proper to swell a work of usefulness, and
to load the page of profitable information with urns, coins, calcined bones, unfashionable
implements of slaughter, and other precious relics, over which the conjectural tribe of
antiquaries rejoice and lament, we might mention numerous discoveries of the kind made
hereabouts. On such matters few words shall be used. - The Castle of Buittle is assuredly
the most considerable remain of antiquity in the parish. Some have affirmed, that it was
formerly called the Castle of Knare, Nare, or Bar-nare, and was the chief residence of the
Reguli of Galloway. An adjoining hill, named Craig-nair, gives some weight to this
supposition. Yet when we recollect, how large a division of the British island once bore
the name of Gallovidia, or the province of Galwalenses, (Strath Clyde), and that several
places in this great extent of country, both from name and situation, may as probably have
been the princely residence, as the Castle of Buittle - there is reason for our leaving
those who think themselves competent, and interested in this matter, to decide. Country
clergymen may well be excused, for ignorance in concerns very little allied to the success
of their labours. Certain it is, however, that the ruins of Buittle Castle denote it to
have been a place of strength, and even magnificence. It now belongs, with its precincts,
as contained in the charter, to Mr Murray of Broughton, the representative of the Caillie
family. The vaults and ditches of Buittle Castle, are all that remain of this proud
structure. They have baffled the ravages of time for several centuries, and may for
several more. The vaults are covered with large ash trees; and into these subterraneous
parts of the Castle, no person has even penetrated, though it might be done with ease and
safety, probably with much gratification to curiosity. - Besides the Castle of Buittle.
the only other remembrance of ages equally rude and remote, which shall be mentioned here,
is one of those ruins, commonly called vitrified forts. Vestiges of such buildings are not
uncommon in the lower parts of Galloway, and the one now alluded to stands on the north
west border of Buittle parish, within the farm called Castle-Gower, which lies along the
march of Kelton.
Climate and Character.
As the soil of Buittle is in general dry, as the air of it is good, and the tract of
country it comprehends warm, good health and length of days are correspondent to those
aids of both. "Medicina summa medicamentis non uti." With this most important
maxim of physic, the inhabitants of Buittle are well acquainted, without consulting
antiquity. There is a surgeon about a mile from the border of the parish, and an attorney
at nearly the same distance. Either, or both of them, will come if sent for, but this is
as seldom as possible. Indeed it is just rather than complimentary, to say, that the
morals of the inhabitants of this parish, as seldom need the interference of law, as their
health does the aids of a physic. Religion is still reverenced, and they esteem a
Christian Church the best temple of reason. To mention politics might be extraneous and
petulant, rather than serviceable to the work for which this article is designed, were it
not that it becomes every good citizen, at a time like the present, to omit nothing that
may in any wise increase public confidence, or allay capricious innovation. Independent in
their sentiments, and in their circumstances, the people of Buittle, (like many of the
country to which they belong) seem rather so besotted as to imagine, that any human form
of government is without infirmity, nor so infatuated as to believe, that every thing is
wrong in our own, and that reformation must be sought in anarchy. The apostles of Mr Paine
seemed at one time assiduous, and his works, (and works of less merit too), were as common
as the church catechism. They are now forgotten. One idea has of late more affected the
public mind. That spirit of unity and indivisibility, that is, arrogance and depredation,
which has so fatally attracted the rabble of Paris, may prevail in Edinburgh or Glasgow: -
Should that be the case, the peaceable and unarmed inhabitants of the country know what
awaits them. On this principle, it is believed, more national guards might be enlisted in
this quarter in one day, than all the declamations against regal tyranny, or parliamentary
corruption, could assemble in a twelvemonth. The lowering the freehold qualification, and
the abrogating or limiting the law of patronage, have been the ultimatum of proposed
reformation in this country.
Disadvantages.
If these and the like are speculative and imaginary grievances, we have but few real
ones to complain of. Instances, however, of this kind may be given. That PENTE of the
waters, (as the modern naturalist say), which is manifested by the retreat of the sea on
every western coast, is abundantly remarkable on the shores of the Solway Frith. Many
acres there, which were barren land 30 years ago, are now good pasture land; and in the
middle of this arm of the sea, banks and mountains are daily increasing in size, so that
they will soon be islands, and will soon be arable. The consequent shallowness of the
Frith, and of the river Urr, renders it therefore impossible, that the navigation of the
Urr can be carried on by vessels much above 50 tons burden; and these can only find access
at the usual landing places, (and the most useful), at spring tides. Now, as the law
stands, the fees, etc., of the custom-house, are as high for a vessel of 50 tons as for
one of 500, and as high for a boat of 5 tons, as for a sloop of 50. In a few years,
however, the trade of this river must be carried on, perhaps, by vessels as small, or
smaller than any we have mentioned; and the proportioning of custom-house fees, and the
shortening of delays incident or usual there, will then be objects of correspondent
magnitude. But the Statistical Account is not meant as a magazine of grievances. May
providence avert greater than we have felt, perhaps than we have imagined!
The author of this article. having thus noticed every thing in the parish, where he
does his duty, that he conceives helpful to public utility, and connected with the
patriotic work he would wish to support, claims from the reader that indulgence, in
respect of literary endowment, which may well be looked for, by one who appears in print,
from no view of profit or praise, but (like many reverend gentlemen) from compulsion.
Minus aptus acutis naribus - If it is now accepted, he hopes it may be a while before he
has occasion to repeat the above apology. Devoid of those brilliant talents, and ill
supported by that profound erudition, which Doctors, Chaplains, and Almoners only possess,
the humble parson of Buittle doubts if he has persuaded the world, that in his humble
parish, "all is for the best." - Happy should he be, in believing, that the
sense of the public admitted things to be tolerable.
Top.
THE SECOND STATISTICAL ACCOUNT OF SCOTLAND
THE PARISH OF BUITTLE.
PRESBYTERY OF KIRKCUDBRIGHT, SYNOD OF GALLOWAY.
by
THE REV. ALEXANDER CROSBIE, MINISTER. 1844.
I - TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name. "VARIOUS opinions," says Mr
Maxwell, in the former Statistical Account of Scotland, "are entertained as to the
derivation of the name. Some have thought that Boot-hill or Butt-hill was the original
name of that territory which now composes the parish of Buittle, on account of the
frequent musters of cavalry or archers that must have taken place in the vicinity of the
castle after-mentioned. With as much probability, however, it may be suggested, that the
word Buittle is but a contraction of Bowet-hill or Bowet-hall, an appellation occasioned
by the beacons in the neighbourhood of the castle alluded to, or from the great light
which it displayed on festive or solemn occasions." In Chalmers's Caledonia, Vol.
iii. p. 316, it is stated, that "the word Buittle is obviously the Anglo-Saxon
Botle,
domicilium valla. This Anglo-Saxon word appears very often in the topography both of
England and Scotland, as Bootle near Liverpool, Bootle in Cumberland, Wall-bootle on
Severus' wall, New-bootle in Mid-Lothian, El-bootle in East.Lothian, and
Mer-botle, which
is now Morbattle, in Roxburghshire."
Boundaries. The parish is bounded on the
north, by the parishes of Crossmichael and Kelton; on the south, by the bay of Orchardton
; on the east, by the parishes of Urr and Colvend, from which it is separated by the river
Urr; and on the west, by a small stream which separates it from Kelton and
Rerwick. The
river Dee, which runs past Kirkcudbright, may, at some remote period, by flowing through
Carlinwark loch and Glengagrie and into the sea at Orchardton bay, have formed the
boundary on the west side. This supposition is strengthened, and in some measure
confirmed, by there being a place on this line denominated the Doagh, which would then
have been a station for catching salmon. Besides, when the river Dee is swollen, it flows
into Carlinwark loch, and nothing prevents the water issuing from that loch in this
direction, but a narrow ridge of accumulated gravel at Burntstick, elevated a few feet
above its present level.
The length of the parish from north to south is 10 miles, and its breadth, which is
irregular, may average about 3 miles.
Topographical Appearance. The surface is
finely diversified with hill and dale, and though it does not abound with grand and
sublime prospects, affords much beautiful and picturesque scenery. In the lower and middle
districts, the ground is broken and uneven, and frequently juts out into steep banks and
rocky knolls covered with furze and broom. In the upper district, it presents a more level
and arable appearance.
It is evident that the sea has receded from this coast, and that at a former period it
must have flowed up the Urr, as far as Furth-head, or Frith-head, two miles from its
present boundary, and considerably above its present elevation at high water, covering a
great extent of ground on each of its banks.
Climate. The climate is mild and salubrious,
as the longevity of many of the parishioners testifies. There are at present eight
individuals about 90 years of age; and sixteen individuals, either upwards of 80 or
approaching nearly to that age. Twelve years ago, one individual died at the age of 103.
There are no diseases peculiar to the parish.
Woods. The cultivation of wood has been
greatly extended during the last forty years, and might be profitably extended still
farther. Much ground, at present waste and uncultivated, and many places naked and
exposed to every blast, might be protected and sheltered, and rendered capable of
producing both grain and pasture of a better quality. The soil, climate, and situation are
in general well adapted for planting and raising wood, as the rapid growth of various
kinds of trees testifies. In some of the woods at Munshes, there are larches of thirty
years' growth, girthing four feet and a-half at three feet from the ground; some of the
poplar and willow tribes, not yet twenty years planted, girthing four feet. The Spanish
chestnut thrives well, and increases rapidly, trees of this species, not above
thirty years planted, girthing four feet. The Scotch firs are of large size, and highly
ornamental. There are also oaks containing upwards of 100 feet of timber, and beeches 160
feet.
Although the larch grows vigorously for a time, it has not anywhere in the parish
attained to a large size. There are larches at Munshes, from seventy to eighty years of
age, which would not yield more than 40 or 50 feet of timber. Most of them are evidently
not in a healthy state.
Upwards of 100 acres of natural wood, on the estate of Kirkennan, are now in the
course of being cut down. This wood consists of oak, ash, birch, &c. It is thirty
years old. The woods on the estates of Kirkennan, Barlochan, Almerness, and
Castlegower,
are from one to thirty-five years planted. There is wood on the estate of Munshes much
older. All the woods in the parish consist chiefly of oak. Yearly thinning and pruning,
though in some places neglected, have in general been well attended to.
Number of acres under wood.
Estates.
|
Imperial acres.
|
Kirkennan
|
247
|
Orchardton,
|
190
|
Almerness,
|
163
|
Munshes,
|
156
|
Castlegower and Craigton,
|
76
|
Halketlaths,
|
44
|
Barlochan,
|
34
|
The other estates may contain
|
50
|
|
960
|
At Hopehead, on the line of the old military road from Castle Douglas to Dumfries,
there is a common plane tree, known by the name of the Forge-tree, equalled by few if any,
in this neighbourhood. It girths 15 feet at three feet and a-half from the ground. Its
branches extend horizontally, and form an exact circle of 76 feet in diameter, the
extremities of which are not more than five feet from the ground. The top is of a conical
shape, and, when covered with foliage, affords an agreeable shade, and presents a
magnificent appearance. There are no records from which its precise age can be
ascertained; but, according to tradition, it was a full-grown tree in the reign of King
William III.; and it may have derived its name from His Majesty having passed that road
with his army on his way to Ireland, and his cavalry having erected a forge there for the
purpose of shoeing their horses. The trunk contains 100 feet, and the branches upwards of
200 feet of measurable timber. There is a considerable cavity above the first row of
branches, the depth of which has not been ascertained, owing to its being filled with
stones. This is the only mark which it exhibits of decay.
At Little Knox, in the immediate vicinity of the church, there is a variegated plane
tree, which girths 11 feet at three feet and a-half from the ground, and contains upwards
of 200 feet of solid wood. Whether the variegation in the foliage of this tree has been
accidentally produced, or has been effected by budding or engrafting, is not known;
perhaps the former supposition is the correct one. This description of plane does not
propagate its own variety. It sheds seed around it, which produces abundance of plants.
Some of these were found, having the first tree leaves variegated like the parent tree.
They were selected and transplanted, with the view of raising variegated planes; but,
beyond the two first tree leaves, the variegation did not extend.
II. - CIVIL HISTORY.
" The castle of Buittle, (says Mr Maxwell in the former Statistical Account of
Scotland,) is assuredly the most considerable remains of antiquity in the parish. Some
have affirmed that it was formerly called the Castle of Knare, Nare, or Bar-nare, and was
the chief residence of the Reguli of Galloway. An adjoining hill, named Craig-nair, gives
some weight to this supposition. Certain it is, however, that the ruins of Buittle Castle
denote it to have been a place of strength and even magnificence. The vaults and ditches
are all that remain of this proud structure. Besides the Castle of Buittle, the only other
remembrance of ages equally rude and remote, is one of those ruins commonly called
vitrified forts, standing on the north-west border of Buittle parish, within a farm called
Castlegower, which lies along the march of Kelton."
Wells. - There are two wells in this parish, mentioned in
Symson's description of Galloway, as having been, at a former period, much resorted to by
valetudinarians on the first Sunday of May. - One of these wells, called the Rumbling
Well, is situated within the farm of Buittle Mains, on the march of Little Knox and
Guffocgland, and its water was considered to be a panacea for the cure of all diseases
which afflict the human body. The other well is supposed to be situated on the march
between Buittle Mains and Buittle Place, and was held in estimation for the cure of a
disease called the Connach, which affects cattle. These wells issue out of rocks, and
discharge copious streams of pure water. Like many of the wells in this parish, they
partake more or less of a chalybeate nature; but they do not appear to - be so much
impregnated, by any mineral substance, which could in the least degree prove more
efficacious in the cure of disease than any other well in the neighbourhood; and the
belief in those supernatural qualities, with which superstition had invested them, being
dispelled, they have long ceased to be resorted to by invalids.
" In this parish of Bootle, about a mile from the kirk, towards the north, is a
well, called the Rumbling Well, frequented by a multitude of sick people for all sorts of
diseases. on the first Sunday of May, lying there the Saturday night, and then drinking of
it early in the morning. There is also another Well, about a quarter of a mile distant,
towards the east. This well is made use of by the country people when their cattell are
troubled with a disease called by them, the connach. This water they carry in vessells to
many parts, and wash their beasts with it, and give it them to drink. It is, too,
rememb'red, that, at both the wells, they leave behind them something by way of a
thank-offering. At the first, they leave either money or clothes; at the second, they
leave the bands and shacles wherewith beasts are usually bound." - Symson's
Description of Galloway, page 16.
Parochial Registers. - These consist of minutes of the kirk
session, and of the records of marriages and baptisms. They commenced in 1736, and were
regularly kept till 1780. From 1780 to 1807, the record of baptisms is somewhat defective.
From 1736 to 1807, the date of the baptism is always entered; that of the birth only
occasionally. Since 1807, the date of both the birth and baptism is recorded. The average
number of marriages for the last three years is 6; of baptisms for the same period, 22; of
deaths, 7. The register of baptisms is not so complete as it ought to have been, owing to
Dissenters not choosing to enter the births of their children in the parish register. The
entries are chiefly made by parents belonging to the Established Church.
III. - POPULATION.
The population in
|
1755, by Dr Webster's report, was
|
899
|
|
1793, by last Statistical Account,
|
855
|
|
1808, census taken by the minister,
|
914
|
|
1811, census taken by direction of Parliament,
|
943
|
|
1821, census taken by direction of Parliament,
|
1023
|
|
1831, census taken by direction of Parliament,
|
1000
|
|
1836, census taken by the minister,
|
1018
|
|
1841, census taken by the minister,
|
1059
|
|
1793
|
1808
|
1836
|
Members of the Established Church
|
678
|
694
|
847
|
Cameronians
|
67
|
43
|
5
|
Seceders
|
34
|
59
|
15
|
Roman Catholics
|
75
|
103
|
94
|
Episcopalians
|
1
|
1
|
11
|
Relief
|
-
|
14
|
-
|
Independents
|
-
|
-
|
45
|
Baptists
|
-
|
-
|
1
|
Total:
|
855
|
914
|
1018
|
Proprietors. - There are 15 proprietors of land belonging to
the parish whose properties are of the yearly value of L50 and upwards, of which 7 reside
in it, and 8 are non-resident.
IV.-INDUSTRY.
Agriculture. - Though farm produce has not for several past
yielded a remunerating price, yet both landlords and tenants have adopted and prosecuted
every plan of modern improvement with a degree of eagerness, perseverance, and success,
not surpassed in any other part of the country. The turnip husbandry is greatly extended
beyond what it was a few years ago. Feeding of sheep, for the last five or six years, has,
with the exception of 1834, been profitable to the farmer; and the facility with which
they are conveyed to the Liverpool market, by means of steam vessels, has contributed to
produce this result.
The kinds of grain raised in this parish consist of oats, barley, and wheat. The
cultivation of wheat is chiefly confined to the clay soil, on the banks of the Urr and Bay
of Orchardton. On the dry and lighter soils, adapted to turnip husbandry, barley is
extensively cultivated. The 'chevalier' barley was introduced about three years ago, and
bids fair to exclude the common sort, which was formerly, and still is cultivated. It is
considered to be a finer grain, more productive, and of greater weight per bushel. The
rotation of crops most approved of on land under tillage is a white and green crop
alternately, though in some instances the practice of taking two white crops in succession
is followed. Besides the manure which the farm affords, lime and bone-dust are employed to
stimulate and fertilize the soil.
The breeding and rearing of cattle is an object of great importance to the farmers, as
they generally calculate on realizing a considerable part of their profits from this
source. Our well-known breed of Galloway cattle bears a higher character, in almost every
point, than any other. It yields beef, which, when well fed, is of the first-rate quality,
and is said to bring, in the Smithfield market, a higher price, by at least 1s. per stone,
than the best beef of England. The carcase weighs, on an average, from 50 to 6O stones,
and, in some instances, 100 stones and upwards. Few Galloway bullocks are fed in this
parish. They are generally sold to the cattle-dealers at two or three years old, and
driven to England, where they are fed for the English markets. On three farms in this
parish, the Ayrshire dairy system has been partially adopted with success.
The farmers hold their lands by leases varying in duration from fifteen to nineteen
years, and pay rents from L.50 to L.700 per annum. There are several small patches of less
value. The farms are enclosed by stone dikes, sunk fences, or hedgerows. The real rent of
the parish, independent of the value of woods and plantations, as taken in 1830, was
upwards of L.8000 per annum. The valued rent in Scotch money is L.3461 per annum.
Rate of Wages. - Male servants, who reside in their master's
house, are paid from L.l0 to L.12 per annum. Female servants are paid from L.6 to L.7 per
annum. The rate of a labourer's wages during summer is 1s. 6d. per day, and during winter
ls. 3d. per day, without victuals. Women, during summer, earn 9d. per day; during winter,
they are seldom employed at outfield work. Masons, 2s. 6d. per day; carpenters, 2s.
The subjoined letter, written by the late John Maxwell, Esq. of Munshes, to the late
W. M. Herries, Esq. of Spottes, and published in the appendix to the first and only report
of the Stewartry Agricultural Society in the year 1810, shows the state of society, the
value of land, and the condition of agriculture, in this parish and
neighbourhood, upwards
of a century ago. As the report alluded to had only a local circulation, and is now
entirely unknown, it is thought proper, for the preservation of so valuable a letter, to
insert it in the Statistical Account. Mr Maxwell was a native of this parish, and died at
Munshes in 1814, at the age of ninety- four.
Munshes February 8, 1811.
DEAR Sir, - The last time that Mr Young of Youngfield was here he signified to me. as you
had previously done, that John Christian Curwen of Workington Hall, Esq. had mentioned,
that he was very desirous of knowing the state of agriculture in the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright, and in Nithsdale, as far back as my remembrance goes.
I was born at Buittle, in this parish, which, in old times, was the fortress and
residence of John Balliol, on the 7th day of February, old style, 1720, and do distinctly
remember several circumstances that happened in the year 1723 and 1724. Of these
particulars the falling of the bridge of Buittle which was built by John Frew in 1722, and
fell in the succeeding summer while I was in Buittle garden seeing my father's servants
gathering nettles. That same year many of the proprietors enclosed their grounds to stock
them with black cattle, and by that means, turned out a vast number of tenants at the term
of Whitsunday 1723 whereby numbers of them became destitute, and, in consequence, rose in
a mob when; with pitchforks, gavellocks, and spades, they levelled the park-dikes of
Barncailzie and Munshes, at Dalbeattie, which I saw with my own eyes.
The mob passed by Dalbeattie and Buittle, and did the same on the estates of
Netherlaw, Dunrod, &c , and the Laird of Murdoch, then proprietor of Kilwhaneday, who
turned out sixteen families at that term. The proprietors rose, with the servants and
dependents to quell this mob, but were not of sufficient force to do it, and were obliged
to send for two troops of dragoons from Edinburgh, who, upon their appearing, the mob
dispersed; After that, warrants were granted for apprehending many of the tenants and
persons concerned in the said mob. Several of them were tried, those who had any funds
were fined, some were banished to the plantations, whilst others were imprisoned, and it
brought great distress upon this part of the country.
At that period, justice was not very properly administered for a respectable man
of the name of M'Clacherty, who lived in Balmaghie parish, was concerned in the mob, and,
on his being brought to trial, one of the justices admired a handsome Galloway which he
rode, and the justice told him, if he would give him the Galloway, he would effect his
acquittal, which he accordingly did. This misfortune, with what happened to the
Mississippi Company in the year 1720 did most generally distress this quarter of the
kingdom. It is not pleasant to represent the wretched state of individuals as times then
went in Scotland.
The tenants, in general, lived very meanly on kail, groats, milk, graddon ground
in querns turned by the hand, and the grain dried in a pot, together with a crook ewe now
and then about Martinmas. They were clothed very plainly, and their habitations were most
uncomfortable. Their general wear was of cloth, made of waulked plaiding, black and white
wool mixed, very coarse, and the cloth rarely dyed. Their hose were made of white plaiding
cloth sewed together. with single-soled shoes, and a black or blue bonnet, - none having
hats but the lairds, who thought themselves very well dressed for going to church on
Sunday with a black kelt-coat of their wife's making.
It is not proper for me here to narrate the distress and poverty that were felt in
the country during these times, which continued till about the year 1735. In 1725,
potatoes were first introduced into the stewartry by William Hyland, from Ireland, who
carried them on horses' backs to Edinburgh, where he sold them by pounds and ounces.
During these times, when potatoes were not generally raised in the country. there was, for
the most part, a great scarcity of food, bordering on famine ; for, in the stewartry of
Kirkcudbright and county of Dumfries, there was not as much victual produced as was
necessary for supplying the inhabitants, and the chief part of what was required for that
purpose, was brought from the sand beds of Esk in tumbling cars, on the Wednesdays, to
Dumfries; and when the waters were high, by reason of spates, and there being no bridges,
so that these cars could not come with the meal, I have seen the tradesmen's wives in the
streets of Dumfries crying, because there was none to be got.
At that period, there was only one baker in Dumfries, and he made bawbee baps of
coarse flour, chiefly bran, which he occasionally carried in creels to the fairs of Urr
and Kirkpatrick. The produce of the country, in general, was gray corn, and you might have
travelled from Dumfries to Kirkcudbright, which is twenty-seven miles, without seeing any
other grain, except in a gentleman's croft, which, in general, produced bear or big for
one-third part, another third in white oats, and the remaining third in gray oats. At that
period, there was no wheat raised in the country; what was used was brought from Teviot,
and it was believed that the soil would not produce wheat. In the year 1735, there was no
mill in the country for grinding that sort of grain, and the first floor mill that was
constructed in these bounds, was built by old Heron at Clouden, in the parish of Irongray,
some years after that date.
In these times, cattle were also very low. I remember of being present at the
Bridge-end of Dumfries in 1736, when Anthony M'Kie of Netherlaw sold five score of five
year old Galloway cattle, in good condition, to an Englishman, at L.2, 12s. 6d. each; and
old Robert Halliday, who was tenant of a great part of the Preston estate, told me, that
he reckoned he could graze his cattle on his farms for 2s. 6d. a head, that is to say,
that his rent corresponded to that sum.
At this period, few of the proprietors gave themselves any concern anent the
articles of husbandry, their chief one being about black-cattle. William Craik, Esq. of
Arbigland's father died in 1735, and his son was a man of uncommon accomplishments, who,
in his younger days, employed his time in grazing of cattle, and studying the shapes of
the best kinds, - his father having given him the farm of Maxwelltown to live upon. The
estate of Arbigland was then in its natural state, very much covered with whins and broom,
and yielding little rent, being only about 3000 merks a year. (18 merks make L.1.
Sterling, or L.12 Scots.). That young gentleman was among the first that undertook to
improve the soil; and the practice of husbandry which he pursued, together with the care
and trouble which he took in ameliorating his farm, was very great. Some of it he brought
to such perfection, by clearing off all weeds and stones, and pulverized it so completely,
that I, on walking over the surface, sunk as if I had trodden on new fallen snow.
The estate of Arbigland was bought by his grandfather, in 1722, from the Earl of
Southesk, for 22,000 merks.
In 1735, there were only two carts for hire in the town of Dumfries, and one
belonging to a private gentleman
About the years 1737 and 1738 there was almost no lime used for building in
Dumfries, except a little shell-lime, made of cockleshells burned at Colvend, and brought
to Dumfries in bags, a distance of twenty miles, and in 1740, when Provost Bell built his
house, the under storey was built with clay, and the upper storeys with lime, brought from
Whitehaven in dry ware casks There was then no lime used for improving the land. In 1749,
I had day-labourers at 6d. per day, and the best masons at 1s. This was at the building of
Mollance House, - the walls of which cost L.49 Sterling.
If you think that anything mentioned here can be of any use or entertainment to Mr
Curwen, I give you full leave to make the same known, with my best respects; and I am,
Dear Sir, Yours sincerely, - (Signed) John MAXWELL. To W. M. Herries, Esq. of
Spottes.
Rent of Land. - The average rent of land varies from 15s. to
L1, 10s. per acre, according to soil and situation ; hill pasture from 3s. to 10s. per
acre. A cow may be grazed during summer for L.3, and a sheep pastured at the rate of 6s.
The average charge for feeding a full-grown sheep, on clover after harvest, and turnips
during winter, is 3d. per week; young sheep, 2d. per week.
The gross amount of raw produce raised in the parish cannot be ascertained with any
degree of accuracy.
Mosses. - The greatest part of the tract of flat land lying
along the river Urr, from Craignair-hill to the march of Kirkennan, extending to nearly
400 acres, was, about seventy years ago, an unimproved moss, of little or no value. The
late Mr George Maxwell of Munshes commenced its improvement, by cutting large open drains,
and putting in a number of covered drains filled with heath. For many years, he kept a
boat constantly employed in bringing up seashells, from extensive shell banks at the mouth
of the river. The boat carried nine cartloads, for which he paid 6s. These shells were
discharged along the sides of the river; and he took his tenants bound to cart and apply
to their respective farms a certain quantity annually. Their effects upon the moss were
most astonishing. They destroyed the heath, and when ploughed, the ground from the outset
brought good crops. The use of shells has been completely given up for that of lime. But
many are of opinion that, on wet land in particular, shells are a better, a more gradual,
and a more lasting stimulant than lime.
The moss in question lay to the depth of many feet, on a blue clay. In some parts, the
moss was removed by burning; but without this, the drainage and tillage have had the
effect of consolidating and exhausting it; so that moss, formerly three or four feet deep,
has nearly disappeared, and now the plough generally reaches the clay. Thus the moss and
clay are incorporated into a fertile black mould. John H. Maxwell of Munshes, the present
proprietor, has, by a judicious system of tile-draining, and other extensive improvements,
greatly ameliorated this soil, and added much to the beauty of the landscape.
The following information was most obligingly communicated by Mr Train of Castle
Douglas, well known to the world as a zealous antiquary.
" A short time ago, some labourers, while draining a moss near Munshes,(At
Greenhill, on the estate of Munshes, parish of Urr.) turned up, at the distance of several
feet from the surface, the horns of a urus. Only one of those has been preserved. From its
very large dimensions, however, some idea may be formed of the corresponding size of the
animal. It measures fifteen inches in circumference round the but-end, and its present
length is twenty-six inches, although it might have been originally thirty inches. It
weighs seven pounds ten ounces. It is well known that the urus, which has now been
ascertained by naturalists to be of the same species with the bison, was, at an early
period, an inhabitant of this country. A horn of the urus was found near Dunkeld, and is
now in the possession of the Duke of Athole. Two horns and a part of the head of the same
animal were, some years ago, discovered in the parish of Borgue, and are now at St Mary's
Isle, the seat of the Earl of Selkirk. But the only entire head and horns that seem to
have yet been discovered, were dug out of a marl-pit on the estate of Castlewig, in
Wigtonshire. This very interesting relic was presented by Mr Hawthorn, the proprietor, to
Mr Train of Castle Douglas, who again presented it to Sir Walter Scott, and it may still
be seen at Abbotsford. The interesting horn first alluded to is in the possession of Mr
Train.
"In August 1843, there was discovered at the estuary of the river Urr, within
high water-mark, and adjoining the farm of Nethertown the fossil head of a bison, of the
following dimensions: -
Length of the head,
38 inches.
Distance between the points of the horns,
32
Circumference of horn at the but,
13
Breadth of the head between the eyes,
11
Sockets of the eyes,
3
"In 1841, there was found at Barlochan a Roman coin of Constantine the Great,
in a high state of preservation, which Mr Train has in his possession.
"In the summer of 1838, an urn or kirtvean was turned up by the plough on the
farm of Breoch. This ancient repository of the ashes of the dead is made of baked clay,
coarsely ornamented. It is nine inches in diameter six inches deep, and nearly an inch
thick. It contained a quantity of black ashes, and fragments of bones, which are carefully
preserved by Mr Maxwell, the proprietor of Breoch. I have in my possession the only
remaining part of the urn; but, since its exposure to the air, it has lost much of its
calcined adhesiveness, as it crumbles on being removed, however slightly.
" In the spring of the year 1839, a labourer employed in clearing away a bank
of earth on the margin of the water of Urr, near the site of the old castle of Buittle,
once the residence of Edward Baliol, laid bare with his spade a large block of red
sandstone, on which the figure of a regularly formed female countenance, surrounded by
ornamental wreathes in bas-relief, is exquisitely carved. The peculiar quality of this
stone shows that it must have been brought from a distance of nearly twenty miles to
Buittle Castle, of which it evidently formed a part. It may now be seen in the garden of
Mr Marchbank at New Buittle.
About thirty-five years ago, the proprietors of the adjoining estates expended L. 500
in widening and deepening the drain which forms the outlet of Kenmore loch, on the
confines of Kelton. This drain is upwards of a mile in length, and in some places
consisted chiefly of rock. About sixty acres of moss, liable to be covered with water,
were thereby converted into productive meadow. This expensive work was also undertaken
with the view of gaining access to a bed of marl which the loch contains. But, though the
water was nearly all carried off the surface of the loch, yet the moss was not laid
sufficiently dry to admit of cartage, and this treasure has not hitherto been obtained.
At Barwhinnie loch, near Palnackie, six acres of moss, covered with water, were
lately, by draining and cultivation, converted into meadow of the richest quality.
Embankments. - Twenty acres of carse land, on the banks of the
Urr, and bay of Orchardton, subject to be flooded at high spring-tides, have been
embanked, and rendered fit for cultivation. Land to a greater extent, on the estates of
Orchardton and Almerness, was enclosed by embankments; but these having been ill
constructed, or insufficiently executed, were soon broken down, and rendered useless.
Quarries.- A granite quarry was opened, about ten years ago,
on Craignair-hill, by the Liverpool Dock Trustees, under favourable auspices, and this
quarry for several years afforded occupation to nearly 200 individuals. A large quantity
of well-dressed blocks, some of them weighing from seven to eight tons, were shipped to
Liverpool. The difficulty, however, of finding blocks of sufficient size, and the great
expense attending the operations, led to the abandonment of the undertaking. Were granite
to come into more general use, it is very probable that this quarry would again be opened.
Independent of the stone being of the first quality, its locality so near a sea-port
enables it to be easily removed.
The improvements in quarrying, splitting, and dressing are likely also to reduce the
expense. Craignair quarry still gives employment to a few hands for local purposes, such
as gate-posts, monuments, tombstones, &c. The ornamental work and lettering of these,
and also the polishing of slabs for lobby-tables, watch-seals, &c. show great
improvement, and do credit to the workmen in the district.
Minerals. - Neither coal nor lime have been found in this
parish, these are imported from the opposite coast of Cumberland. From partial workings
that have been made on the estate of Kirkennan, there is every appearance that this
property abounds with valuable iron ore.
Fisheries. - The salmon fisheries in the river Urr were, at a
former period, of considerable value. The report of old inhabitants still alive is that
the fishing belonging to the estate of Munshes, in favourable seasons, yielded, during the
latter part of the season, from 15 to 20 salmon daily. On one occasion 50 were taken at
one draught. And now, for years past, not one-half of 50 has been legally taken during the
whole season. It is believed that all the fishings in the Urr would not, if now let, bring
L.10 of annual rent.
It is difficult to say to what cause this failure is to be attributed. The stake-nets
at the mouth of the river, on Balcary sands, in the parish of Rerwick, erected within the
last twenty years, (in which a great number of salmon are now taken,) may in some measure
account for it. The proprietors having little interest in the river fisheries, use no
vigilance in protecting the breeding fish, so that poaching during the close season is
carried on to a great extent. The application of lime to the land, the great extent of
drainage, whereby marshes and swamps throw off their superfluous waters at once, and thus
prevent the salmon in dry seasons from getting up the river, have all, it has been
imagined, tended to injure the river fisheries.
No attempt has hitherto been made by any of the inhabitants to establish the white
fishing, along our shores.
V. - PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Castle Douglas is the nearest market-town. Palnackie is the only village in the
parish. It is situated on the river Urr, and has a considerable trade with Liverpool,
Whitehaven, Workington, Maryport, and other towns in the north of England ; with Glasgow
and Irvine in the west of Scotland, and also with North-America. Coals, lime, wood,
slates, and merchant goods are imported. Farm produce, wood, fat cattle, and sheep, are
exported.
Trade has greatly increased at the port of Palnackie, since the former Statistical
Account was written. The additional quantity of lime used for building and agriculture,
the increased consumption of coals, (fifty years ago only two, or at most three, cargoes
of coals were imported. The average number of cargoes for the last three years is 124.)
the increasing prosperity of the town of Castle Douglas, of which Palnackie may be
considered the port, and the general prosperity of the country, have led to this result.
The river Urr is navigable at the lowest neap-tides, from its confluence with the
Solway to Palnackie, being a distance of four miles, by vessels drawing from 11 to 12 feet
of water; and at high spring tides, by vessels drawing 16 or 17 feet of water. From
Palnackie to Dalbeattie, a distance of four miles, it is navigable by vessels drawing 8
feet of water, at a tide rising 15 feet.
There is no regularly built harbour at Palnackie. On one side of the Creek where
vessels used to lie, a breast-work, or temporary wooden quay, has been erected, where six
vessels can be loaded or discharged at the same time. As the present accommodation is too
small for the shipping, were the quay extended along the side of the river, and on the
opposite side of the creek, it would give an additional impulse to the trade of this port.
No harbour dues are exacted. One farthing per ton register is levied for river dues,
viz., keeping tip ringbolts, mooring posts, and the river road. A customhouse officer is
stationed here, and all vessels, except those engaged in foreign trade, are cleared, both
inwards and outwards.
The following table shows the principal articles of import and export, to and from the
port of Palnackie, for the three years from 1833 to 1836, distinguishing each year.
Imports.
| |
Foreign Timber
|
|
Coals
|
|
Lime - Carlisle
|
|
Slates
|
|
Bone Manure - Winchester
|
|
Merchant Goods etc.
|
|
Years
|
Cargos
|
Feet
|
Cargoes
|
Tones
|
Cargoes
|
Bushels
|
Cargoes
|
Tons
|
Cargoes
|
Bushels
|
Cargoes
|
Tons
|
1833
|
2
|
22,000
|
124
|
3720
|
125
|
62,500
|
12
|
408
|
4
|
8,000
|
25
|
870
|
1834
|
2
|
22,300
|
122
|
3660
|
111
|
55,500
|
11
|
374
|
7
|
14,500
|
34
|
1020
|
1835
|
2
|
24,000
|
126
|
4032
|
66
|
33,000
|
12
|
417
|
9
|
18,200
|
47
|
1408
|
Exports.
| |
Grain
|
|
Oat-Meal
|
|
Potatoes
|
|
Timber, oak-bark, sawn boards etc.
|
|
Steam Vessels.
|
|
Years
|
Cargoes
|
Quarts
|
Cargoes
|
Tons
|
Cargoes
|
Tons
|
Cargoes
|
Tons
|
Cargoes
|
Fat Cattle & sheep
|
1833
|
31
|
6975
|
2
|
85
|
16
|
640
|
57
|
2580
|
|
|
1834
|
42
|
9450
|
3
|
120
|
7
|
280
|
100
|
4000
|
15
|
5100
|
1835
|
50
|
11,250
|
3
|
125
|
17
|
685
|
97
|
3880
|
22
|
7480
|
There are twenty vessels belonging to the river Urr, amounting in all to 1303 tons
burthen; and navigated by 75 seamen.
A foot-runner, carrying the mail, passes every afternoon from Castle Douglas, through
Palnackie to Dalbeattie, and returns in the evening.
Ecclesiastical State. - The church stands in the centre of the
parish, and is accessible to all the inhabitants. It was built in 1819, at an expense of
L.1000 Sterling, on an elevated situation adjoining to the burying ground, and of a
construction more commodious for the people than the old church, as well as more
ornamental to the neighbourhood. It is calculated to hold 400 sitters on the ground area;
and the walls are of sufficient height to admit of galleries being erected at any future
period, should the population increase. There is no other place of worship in the parish.
The patronage of the church belongs to the crown.
The old church stood in the centre of the burying-ground, and bore evident marks of
remote architecture; there are no records respecting the period of its erection. The east
end of it, which comprehended the choir, was wider than the rest of the building, and was
divided from it by a Gothic arch. The walls still remain entire, and are covered with ivy,
forming a beautiful ruin.
In Symson's description of Galloway, it is said that " the kirk was of old called
Kirkennen, and was situated upon the river of Urr, near the mouth of it ; but for the more
conveniency, was translated to the very centre of the parish, and called Bootle, because
built in the baronie so called."
No vestige of the old church of Kirkennan now remains, though the place where it
stood, is still pointed out. About seventy years ago, when digging the ground around it,
handles of coffins and fragments of human bones were discovered. This burying-ground has
long been subjected to the plough; it probably ceased to be used as a place of interment
when the church was removed to Buittle, and a burying-ground was established there. No
monuments or grave stones were erected at Kirkennan, at least, no fragments of any such
memorials now remain; perhaps, at a remote period, these were not erected in country
parishes. The oldest grave-stone in Buittle church-yard, was erected to the memory of a
person who died in 1701.
The manse and offices were built in 1793, and have undergone frequent repairs.
The stipend, as modified in 1831 by the Court of Teinds, is 16 chalders, half barley
and half meal ; and since that period, the average amount of stipend, converted into money
according to the fiar prices of the Stewartry is L.211 , 2s. 3 1/4d. per annum.
Education. - There are two parochial schools in the parish.
One of the teachers has a salary of L.28, 6s. 5d. The other has a salary of L.23, Os. 2d.
The teachers have commodious dwelling houses and school-rooms, built by the heritors in
1817. One of the teachers has a small garden free of rent; the other pays L.1 per annum
for less than a rood of ground. The number of scholars attending the parochial schools, on
an average, is about 130.
Poor and Parochial Funds. - The average number of industrious
poor on the roll of the kirk-session for the last three years is 18. There is no parochial
assessment. The weekly collections in the church, with the interest of a small sum of
money, and the annual donations of a few charitable individuals among the non-resident
heritors, have hitherto been sufficient for the support of the poor. The funds are divided
quarterly, and the industrious poor receive on an average 8s. 6d. each. Besides the
industrious poor, there are at present one pauper entirely supported out of the poor's
funds, at the rate of L.7 per annum, and another supported by the heritors, at the rate of
L.10 per annum.
VI. MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS.
Since the former Statistical Account was written, the parish has undergone
considerable changes. Zeal for agricultural improvements has greatly increased, new
implements of husbandry have been introduced, and better kinds of grain cultivated.
Drainage has likewise been extensively practised, the system of turnip husbandry generally
adopted, and greatly extended by the application of bone manure, and the land improved by
the turnips being fed off with sheep. Plantations, by which the country is sheltered and
adorned, have been greatly extended, the farmhouses have been rebuilt or enlarged, and are
now neat and commodious, and the office-houses substantial and extensive. The comforts
which the farmers enjoy, and their modes of living, have changed greatly for the better.
The cottages and their inhabitants have also shared in the general improvement.
The increase of population, though not rapid, has been progressive. This increase is
chiefly confined to the village of Palnackie, which, in 1808, contained only 7 houses and
29 inhabitants. It now contains 29 houses and 190 inhabitants.
Roads have been greatly improved within the last thirty years. New lines have been
opened, and the old lines in many places altered, so as to avoid acclivities, and conduct
them in a more level and convenient direction. Besides the turnpike roads passing through
the parish, there are eighteen miles of parish roads kept in repair, from the Conversion
money in lieu of Statute Labour. This amounts, at the maximum assessment, to L.51, 18s.
3d. Many of the most important of these roads were made at a great
expense by heritors, through whose lands they passed, advancing money without interest, to
be repaid when the road funds of the parish would admit. Twenty years ago, the debt thus
created amounted to L.549. It has now been reduced to L.136, - principally by the heritors
having for many years assessed themselves with an extra sum of L.17, 6s. 1d. annually.
Drawn up November 1836.
Revised February 1844.
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